Wagah border amritser, about 29 km from Amritsar on the Grand Trunk, has become famous for the ceremonial closing of gates and lowering of flags of India and Pakistan. Over 5000 people converge on the Indian side alone to watch the ceremony known as Beating the Retreat. Wagah is about 29 km from Amritsar in Punjab province. As the Flag Code of India mandates that the national flag shall be flown only from sunrise to sunset, the tricolour is hoisted after sunrise and lowered at sunset. The martial ceremony of lowering the flag has been turned into an entertainment at Wagah Border. It is a highly stylized patriotic aggression on display that is hard to miss and is carried out with great ceremonial pomp and energy.
The BSF and Pakistan Rangers compete to kick higher, march harder and shout for longer duration in a bid to outdo each other. Guards using their bodies rather than their weapons lay on display carefully choreographed contempt. It is a masterly demonstration of how angry you can get without hitting anyone. The flag lowering ceremony, traditionally, has been a display of mutual hatred by BSF and Pakistan Rangers. Even though the whole routine is choreographed and agreed to by India and Pakistan, the ceremony has often been a cause of contention between both the countries.
Guards who participate in the drill are carefully chosen on the basis of height, imposing stature, etc. besides their ability to perform the drill to perfection. Even though more aggressive elements of the routine have been toned down, the ostentatious and theatrical hostility is electrifying.
It has become a tradition for people from both sides to converge at the border post to watch the ceremony. The crowd on Indian side is heavy on long weekends and public holidays. India and Pakistan have constructed stands to enable their citizens to watch the spectacle with comfort. With the numbers increasing, Indian government plans to develop Wagah as a tourist destination. The ceremony lasts for around 45 minutes and is over just before the sunset. The time of the flag lowering ceremony changes depending on the season. Generally, it starts at around 4.15 pm during winter and at around 4:45 pm during summer.
The ceremony was started in 1959 and was agreed by the government of both the countries. Since then, the ceremony has been conducted with much pomp and splendor. The ceremony started decades ago as a gesture of good will among the two countries. However, the ceremony took an aggressive turn after a few years. The border place comprises of a huge arch and has gates of both the countries. Seating arrangements are enabled for spectators to watch the ceremony. Exclusive seats are reserved for women. General seating is allowed only for men. There is also a VIP seating close to the gate and requires a special pass.
The Golden Temple can be reached by road, train and air. While in Amritsar, one can easily reach by taking a taxi to the Golden temple. Other forms of local transport here are cycle rickshaws and city buses. Other cities are also well-connected to the Golden Temple. Delhi is 435 km and Chandigarh is 235 km from the Golden Temple. Amritsar is well-connected by rail with Mumbai, Varanasi, Delhi, Kolkata and other major places in India.
November to March, Amritsar experiences a chilly weather. The temperatures generally drop below 5°C in December and January. So, make sure that you pack enough warm clothes for the trip. Winters bring out the lively side of Amritsar. You get a glimpse of various festivals and revelries celebrated during this period, such as Guru Nanak Jayanti and Lohri. You can join in the festivities and make your visit memorable. Exploring the culture of the city during this time is something one must experience.
